Crispy masala dosas, boiling hot vadas, and tangy sambars are famous at Udupi hotels around the country. But, did you know that these hotels unknowingly contributed to the reduction of caste-based segregation in India’s public spaces?
It all began in Udupi, in the 13th century, a little seaside town in Karnataka, in India. A prominent Sri Krishna temple started offering free meals to its worshippers, known as annadhana. The menu, as well as the times when the meal would be served, were set in stone. According to history books, the cooks who learned in these temples later relocated to other regions of the country, such as Bengaluru, Chennai, and Mumbai, and opened Udupi hotels there.
The first Udupi Sri Krishna hotel was established in 1942 by a young kid who had relocated to Mumbai from Udupi. Another Udupi-style hotel, Mavalli Tiffin Room (MTR), was established in the 1950s by two brothers. MTR is now considered more of an institution after 80 years in business.
So, how did these restaurants contribute to the reduction of caste-based discrimination?
Restaurants in Udupi used to follow tight rules when it came to supplying meals to their customers. There were restrictions on admission, private dining spaces for Brahmins, and separate utensils, as well as the removal of specific vegetables for cooking. However, campaigners began speaking out against caste-based practises and their expansion into eateries in the 1950s. Ramaswami Naicker, a Dravidian leader, once painted over the word “Brahmin” on a restaurant’s signboard. Soon, other restaurants followed by changing their practices, and now, Udupi hotels are cultural hotspots where office workers and daily labourers dine together.
Read/Add Comments